Skenasdoodles Owners Tips & Information

We will supply our owners with both a Slicker brush and a metal comb - we have found that these are fantastic for your pup's coat type.

You will need to start with a puppy shampoo, conditioner isn't needed initially.

 Finding a groomer can be just as challenging as finding a decent hairstylist, there are good and bad in every city or town.
When advising people to look for the right groomer I would suggest that the following is important and worth researching:
The Groomer works one-on-one, and does not have lots of dogs sitting waiting in crates - this can create a negative environment for your dog. The appointment that they give you is for longer than 60 minutes once your dog is an adult - grooming should not be rushed.
That you are able to book an appointment with the same Groomer each and every time so that there is continuity and a bond can be built between your dog and the groomer, there has to be trust involved and that takes a little time.
They have doodles on their books and that they cut and groom in the style that you like - this really does vary.
They offer a one-on-one puppy pamper session in the early days which is when they will wash blow dry and trim and sanitary areas whilst your dog is getting used to this new environment. They should have experience with dealing with young puppies. 

Allowing your puppy to get used to wearing a collar in the early days is advised.

www.hugoandhudson.com are a great company for collars and leads, much better quality than many other collars that are available in shops and online.  

We don't advise that owners use a harness, we feel that you should be training your puppy to walk on a loose lead.  To achieve this you need to work on communication and eye contact.  Harnesses do not allow this to happen.

A puppy should be learning to walk next to you or behind you - harnesses allow them to naturally walk ahead of you so eye contact is broken from the beginning.

We suggest that you look at a long line lead should you need to work on recall rather than the extender leads - again these leads do not allow for training methods and recall.

Your Skenasdoodles puppy has been reared on a 'Grain Free' high quality complete puppy kibble.

We suggest that you keep your puppy grain free for their entire lives as many hot spots, ear infections and other health issues can be caused by grain in their diet.

We suggest that you always check ingredients for all treats that you use.

A healthy gut is the key.

Tree Bark powder from Dorwest is a must have for any dog owner's cupboard - it is a natural product that helps to keep the gut healthy.

Poodles and Poodle Crosses can have lots of hair growth in their ears. 

It is worth  keeping on top of this to avoid ear infections.

The Original Thornit Canker Powder is another item that we suggest you have in your Dog First Aid box

Thornit is a traditional canker powder remedy that can be applied directly to the ear surface of dogs, cats, and small animals in order to treat cases of ear mite, reduce symptoms, and ease irritation. It is unlikely to help clear an external skin infection.

Canker Powder can be used to loosen the hair follicles in the ear so that hairs may be removed easily.

It is important that their is air flow and that water doesn't get stuck in the ear canal because of a build up of hair, this is to avoid ear infections.

We always suggest that you insure your puppy for the duration of their life.

We would suggest that while you are researching your insurance policy you keep the following in mind:

Look for life long cover, Recurring illnesses

The annual cover should be at least £6000 per year, any policies that cover for less than this in any one policy are not worth the paper they are written on sadly as vet bills are on the increase.

A simple fracture can be anything in the region of £4000.  Overnight stay could be £750 per night so make sure that you annual allowance is high enough to make the policy worth while.

We suggest that you start your policy from the day that you collect your puppy from us - all policies have a 14 day grace period where you cannot make a claim so the earlier it is started the better.

 Your puppies will have been wormed up to date and we will supply a 10 week wormer (Drontal tablet) in your puppy pack so you will not need to allow your chosen vet to worm again initially - unnecessary toxins in such a young pup should be avoided at all costs.  Every time your puppy is given a treatment or vaccination their immune system takes a hit because they are so young.

We use Panacur granules here for worming and nothing else.  It is a trusted / licensed wormer that you do not need a prescription for and it doesn’t cost you a huge amount of money. 
No vet will slate it as it does exactly what it needs to do but some don’t stock it as a wormer because it’s not expensive.
It can be used once every three months to keep on top of everything and treats for the worms.

I am not a owner/breeder that fills my dogs with pesticides/toxin unnecessarily - sadly some vets make a huge amount of money from these products and will happily give them far too often. 
As an owner you are not required to administer certain drugs in the UK so just ensure that you research the products that you are being offered.

We are not anti vets - just anti ‘some’ vets - our dogs do not have a voice and so it is up to us to ensure that we are not filling them with pesticides unnecessarily

We use natural remedies to help with worming too - take a look at 

https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/everyday-foods-to-get-rid-of-dog-worms/

Why Do Puppies Mouth? 

Puppies use their mouths to explore the world, just like human babies use their hands. Mouthing is a natural behavior that serves several purposes: 

1. Teething Relief – Puppies chew to soothe sore gums as their baby teeth fall out. 

2. Exploration – They use their mouths to learn about textures and objects. 

3. Play and Socialization – Puppies naturally play by biting each other. This helps them learn bite inhibition (how to control bite pressure). 

4. Attention-Seeking – If a puppy learns that biting gets a reaction (even a negative one), they may continue the behavior. 

How to Stop Puppies from Mouthing 

1. Provide Chew Toys – Give appropriate toys to redirect their biting.   Frozen carrots are a great idea!

2. Redirect to Training or Play – Engage your puppy in structured activities, like fetch or training, to use their energy positively. 

3. Use Time-Outs – If biting continues, calmly remove yourself from play to show that biting ends fun.  Remembering that young puppies need plenty of sleep, you may find that an over tired puppy may well mouth more than usual.

4. Reward Gentle Behavior – Praise and treat your puppy when they interact without using their mouth. 

If you’re a new pet owner dealing with fleas, there are two main approaches to treatment: natural remedies and flea shampoos. Here’s a breakdown of both methods:

Natural Remedies for Flea Treatment

If you prefer a chemical-free approach, try these natural solutions:

Apple Cider Vinegar Spray – Mix equal parts apple cider vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Lightly spray your pet’s coat (avoiding the eyes) to make it less appealing to fleas.

Diatomaceous Earth (DE) – Food-grade DE can be sprinkled on carpets, pet bedding, and outdoor areas to kill fleas by dehydrating them. Vacuum thoroughly after a few hours.

Frequent Bathing – A gentle, non-toxic soap can help remove fleas without harsh chemicals.

Regular Grooming – Use a flea comb daily to remove fleas and flea eggs from your pet’s fur. Dip the comb in soapy water to kill the fleas.

Essential Oils (Caution Required) – Some essential oils like lavender or cedarwood can help repel fleas, but always dilute them and check if they are safe for your specific pet (never use tea tree oil on cats).

Using Flea Shampoos

Flea shampoos contain insecticides or natural flea-repelling ingredients. Follow these steps for proper use:

Choose the Right Shampoo – Pick one that is specifically made for your pet’s species and age. Some flea shampoos are too harsh for puppies, or sensitive-skinned pets.

Wet Your Pet’s Fur Thoroughly – Use warm (not hot) water to soak their coat completely.

Apply Shampoo and Lather Well – Focus on areas where fleas hide, like behind the ears, under the belly, and near the tail. Let the shampoo sit for the recommended time (usually 5-10 minutes).

Rinse Thoroughly – Ensure no shampoo residue remains, as it can cause skin irritation.

Dry and Comb – Use a flea comb to remove any remaining fleas after the bath.

Repeat as Needed – Some flea shampoos kill only adult fleas, so repeat treatments may be necessary, along with other flea prevention methods.

Additional Flea Prevention Tips

Wash pet bedding and vacuum regularly to eliminate flea eggs.  INDOREX spray is worth considering around the home.

Use flea preventatives (such as flea collars, or topical treatments) to keep fleas from returning.  Research on available products is essential here as some have harsh side affects 

Treat your home and garden with flea sprays, powders, or nematodes to kill fleas in the environment.

Other natural products to consider

Billy No Mates - added to food each day

Garlic - research the correct dosage for you dogs weight - should not be given before six months of age.

 Crate training can be a very positive experience for a puppy if done correctly. Here’s how new owners should use it in a way that creates a safe and comfortable space for their pup.

Choosing the Right Crate

Size: The crate should be large enough for the puppy to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably but not so big that they can use one corner as a toilet. 

If you have a large breed puppy, consider a crate with an adjustable divider so it can grow with them.

Material: Wire crates offer good ventilation and visibility, while plastic crates feel cozier and are great for travel. Soft-sided crates are only suitable for calm or already-trained dogs.

Setting Up the Crate

Location: Place the crate in a quiet but social area of the home, such as the living room or a room where people spend time. Avoid isolating the puppy, as they need to feel included.   A room that leads out onto the garden is best.

Do not place the crate next to a radiator or on underfloor heating as puppy may wish to move away from the heat source and will not be able to.  Location should be draft free.

Comfort: Add a soft bed or crate pad, and include safe chew toys or a blanket that smells like their littermates or you for reassurance. Avoid excessive bedding if the puppy is prone to accidents.  Vetbedding is perfect for early training as can be cut to size and washes well, drys quickly.

Introducing the Crate Positively

Start Slowly: Leave the crate door open and let the puppy explore it at their own pace. Encourage them with treats and toys.

Make it Rewarding: Feed meals inside the crate, offer special toys or treats when they go inside, and always associate it with positive experiences.

Avoid Using it for Punishment: The crate should be a safe, happy place—not a “time-out” zone.

Short Periods First: Start with just a few minutes at a time, gradually increasing duration as they get comfortable.

Nighttime Use: Puppies may whine at first. Comfort them, but don’t take them out unless it’s for a bathroom break. Be consistent so they learn the crate is for sleeping.  Ensuring that your puppy has been to toilet before going to their crate will reduce the accidents overnight.

Please remember that puppies will only be able to hold their toileting if their bladders are strong enough - this strength increases with time and growth.

Preventing Accidents: Puppies should not be crated longer than they can hold their bladder. 

When to Avoid the Crate

Too Much Time: A crate is not a replacement for human interaction. Puppies need exercise, play, and bonding time outside of it.

Using it as a Punishment: If a puppy associates the crate with negative experiences, they may resist using it.

With patience and consistency, the crate becomes a place where the puppy feels safe and relaxed, helping with potty training, preventing destructive behavior, and giving them a cozy retreat of their own.

Make the crate 'den like' by covering the tops, sides and back so that the puppy feels secure.

Puppy teething can be a challenging but important part of a puppy’s development, typically starting around 3-4 months of age and lasting until they are about 6-7 months old, when their adult teeth come in. During this time, your puppy will begin to lose their baby teeth and their permanent adult teeth will come in, which can lead to some discomfort.

What to Look Out For:

Chewing Behavior: Puppies will chew more during this time to relieve the discomfort from teething. They may chew on furniture, shoes, or anything they can get their paws on.  Frozen carrots are a great help and natural!

Drooling: Increased drooling is common as puppies deal with the discomfort in their mouths.

Bitter Mood or Irritability: Some puppies may become fussy or irritable due to the pain associated with teething.

Blood on Toys or in the Mouth: You may notice small amounts of blood on their toys or in their mouth, which is normal as baby teeth fall out.

Decreased Appetite: If your puppy seems to be eating less or avoiding hard food, it could be due to the soreness in their gums.

How to Soothe Teething Pups:

Teething Toys: Provide safe, durable chew toys designed specifically for teething puppies. Rubber toys, silicone-based bones, and frozen teething rings can be helpful. Make sure they are tough enough to withstand chewing without breaking into smaller pieces that could be swallowed.

Frozen Items: Freeze a wet washcloth or a soft rubber toy, so it’s cold when they chew on it. The cold can help numb their gums and reduce discomfort.

Soft Food: If your puppy is avoiding dry kibble, try softening their food with a bit of warm water or offering them wet food until their teeth fully come in.

Massage: Gently massaging your puppy’s gums with your finger can sometimes offer relief, though be careful and gentle.

Distraction: Keeping your puppy mentally and physically stimulated with walks, training sessions, and play can help reduce excessive chewing on inappropriate items.

When Do Adult Teeth Come In?

Adult Incisors: Usually around 4-5 months.

Adult Canines (fangs): Around 5-6 months.

Adult Premolars: Around 5-7 months.

Adult Molars: Molars are the last to come in, usually around 6-7 months of age.

When to Give Bones:

Chewing on bones should be approached with caution during the teething phase. It’s generally recommended to wait until your puppy has all their adult teeth (around 7 months) before offering harder bones or bones with sharp edges (like some natural bones or antlers). At the teething stage, it’s safer to offer softer chews or rubber-like bones to avoid any damage to their developing teeth.

Teething can be a bit of a rough patch, but with the right toys and care, it can pass smoothly! Keep an eye on the signs and ensure your puppy has safe items to chew on while avoiding any potential hazards.

YOU SHOULD NEVER GIVE A DOG A COOKED BONE AS IT MAY SPLINTER AND CAUSE INTERNAL DAMAGE

 Being able to read your puppy’s stools is an important skill for any new owner. Your puppy’s poop can tell you a lot about their health, diet, and well-being. Monitoring their stools regularly can help detect early signs of illness, dietary issues, or even parasites.

What to Look for in Your Puppy’s Stools

Consistency

Healthy poop: Firm but not hard, log-shaped, and easy to pick up.

Too soft or runny: May indicate dietary issues, stress, or mild stomach upset.

Watery diarrhea: Could be due to infections, parasites, or food intolerances. If persistent, seek veterinary help.

Hard, dry stool: Might mean dehydration or constipation. Ensure your puppy is drinking enough water.

Color

Chocolate brown: Normal and healthy.

Green: Could mean your puppy has eaten too much grass or something unusual.

Yellow or orange: May suggest a liver issue or digestive upset.

Black or dark tarry stool: Could indicate internal bleeding—seek immediate vet attention.

Red streaks: Might be a sign of bleeding in the lower intestines or rectum. If persistent, consult your vet.

White or grayish: Could be due to a liver problem or a diet too high in calcium (e.g., excessive bones).

Contents

Mucus: A little is normal, but excessive mucus could indicate inflammation in the intestines.

Undigested food: This may mean your puppy isn’t digesting their food properly. It could be caused by eating too fast, a dietary intolerance, or poor-quality food.  However if using carrots for teething it is pretty normal to see this in the stools the following day.

Worms or eggs: Any visible worms, white specks, or moving particles in the stool should be checked by a vet.

Foreign objects: If you notice fabric, plastic, or other non-food materials, your puppy might be eating things they shouldn’t—watch them closely!

Frequency

Puppies usually poop multiple times a day (around 3-5 times, depending on their age and diet).

Sudden changes in frequency (too much or too little) might signal a problem with digestion or health.

If you notice persistent diarrhea, constipation, blood, or any major changes in your puppy’s stools, consult your vet as soon as possible. Keeping track of your puppy’s poop may not be the most pleasant task, but it’s an essential part of responsible pet ownership!

 Exercising a puppy is essential for their physical and mental development, but it’s important to do it safely and appropriately for their age. Here’s what new owners need to know:

How Much Exercise Does a Puppy Need?

The general rule of thumb is 5 minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day. 

For example: A 2-month-old puppy: 10 minutes, twice a day.  A 4-month-old puppy: 20 minutes, twice a day

This should be a gradual increase as they grow, and activities should always be age-appropriate.

Types of Puppy Exercise

Short Walks: Keep walks brief and slow-paced, allowing for sniffing and exploring.

Playtime: Games like fetch (with soft throws), gentle tug-of-war, or interactive toys help burn energy.

Training Exercises: Mental stimulation, such as learning commands, is just as tiring as physical exercise.

Safe Socialization: Playdates with other vaccinated dogs help with social skills and exercise.

Indoor Play: If the weather is bad, activities like hide-and-seek or treat puzzles work well.

Exercise Precautions

Avoid over-exercising: Too much strain on young joints can lead to problems like hip dysplasia, especially in large breeds.

No forced running or jumping: Puppies’ bones are still developing, so avoid long runs, stairs, or jumping from heights.

Pay attention to signs of tiredness: If your puppy is lagging behind, panting excessively, or lying down, it’s time to stop.

Adjusting as They Grow

As your puppy gets older, you can gradually increase exercise intensity. By around 12-18 months, most dogs can handle longer walks and more vigorous play, but always check with your vet, especially for large breeds.

  We do encourage our owners to spay/neuter their dog.

We believe that a male puppy should not have this operation carried out until they are at least 15 months of age to allow for them to mature. Larger breed dogs can mature at a slower rate than smaller breeds, so we advise that a male dog is approx. 15-24 months old at the time of neuter. Final growth plates do not close until around 15-18 months of age.

We feel the best scenario for a female puppy is that she has fully matured and has had at least her first season (which will be at approximately 7-15 months of age).
You should make a note of the date that you first notice her bleeding and then book the operation for three months after this date – this is to try to ensure that the spay is carried out mid cycle which is the safest time according to most experienced veterinary staff.

Things to consider

A non-spayed female has an increased chance of acquiring Breast Cancer

The risk of cancer is only increased by 8% should you wait until a female has fully matured and had her first season as apposed to spaying before that first season (before maturity) 

Males risk Testicular Cancer, some can also sometimes show early signs of unwanted behaviours if not neutered – each puppy must be assessed individually as they are all different. 

All bitches are different but they will most likely bleed for the first 7 days or so 

Avoid other dogs - If you must walk her, you should walk your bitch at different times to other dogs, keep her on a lead and in less popular dog walking areas. It is also advisable to keep your garden gate securely locked to ensure she cannot escape and male dogs cannot get to her. Garden play is advisable. 

Keep the peace in your home - If you have an un-neutered male dog (even if they are litter mates) in your house, you need to separate them for at least 28 days to prevent accidents/breeding. 

To avoid mess in your house, where possible try and confine your pet to easy-to-clean floors without access to sofas etc  

  First 'season' for the larger dog is generally somewhere between 7 and 15 months of age...  

As much as there are mixed feelings/advice  on when to spay your bitch, I am a firm believer in that your puppy will only have her first season when she is physically ready so we do feel that spaying after her first season is still the best option allowing her to fully develop/mature... Having said that if your bitch has a first season at seven months of age I would advise that she continues and has a second season before spay.

You may well see the signs of her 'season' starting by her paying lots of attention to herself and cleaning herself often. 

Make a note of the first day that you see blood spotting - you can use a clean white tissue on her if you are not sure

The following is a guide to when things happen (please be aware that all bitches are different so days can vary slightly)

Day 1-7: 

show of blood 

Days 9-14 

most fertile time when you may well see flirting and tailing (which is when she stands with her tail up and over to one side)  

Days 15-25 

(grey area) some bitches will still mate at this time so please be careful. 

During her season it is advisable to keep her on a lead whilst out in public and keep walks to a minimum and in quieter places at quiet times.  Some owners will keep her in the garden during whole season, but that is not always an option so please be careful.  

You may find a change in behaviour, her unwillingness to play with dogs that she usually gets on well with, especially if they try to sniff her back legs area, allow for this and maybe avoid those interactions whilst she is in season. 

Garden play during most fertile days is strongly advised.  An (in-tact) dog can smell a bitch in season from almost 2 miles away - also some smaller male puppies can be fertile from as young as 4-7 months of age which in most cases can be before they would be castrated! 

Hope this helps, please let me know if you have any questions... And yes you can buy a nappy for your little girl during the first few days

We advise that a spay operation is carried out mid cycle which is approximately three months after the first day of her season.

Puppies should be handled every day to get them used to being touched and examined. 

If a puppy is not introduced early they are likely to find handling stressful later in life and this will make care and grooming difficult. 

From the day that you puppy arrives home you should have daily sessions with them where you reward them for their relaxed behaviour – generously with treats to begin with. This will allow grooming and spot checking coat and skin to be a perfectly normal experience for your puppy.

THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN HANDLING YOUR PUPPY

- Visual eye checks

- Check inside ears

- Check inside mouth
- Clean teeth with a finger brush and DOG toothpaste

- Part hair and check skin in three different places every day

- Run hand down body to check for lumps

- Check for parasites

- Touch feet and spread pads to check in between them

- Check nails and tap with clippers gently so that when they need clipping it will not be a surprise

-Brush and comb puppy’s coat for a few minutes every days

YOUR PUPPY NEEDS TO BE HANDLED BY THE WHOLE FAMILY INCLUDING THE CHILDREN – CHILDREN SHOULD HOWEVER ALWAYS BE SUPERVISED AND THE PUPPY SHOULD ALWAYS ENJOY THESE SESSIONS. 

IT IS UP TO THE ADULT TO EDUCATE THE CHILD ON HOW TO HANDLE THEIR PUPPY SO THAT A GREAT RELATIONSHIP IS FORMED AND BOTH CHILD AND PUPPY RESPECT EACH OTHER!

  We have been using the whistle each time that we have fed the puppies in this litter. Three short blasts on the whistle before food is put down for them.

You can continue to do this once you get the puppy home with you – we will supply a whistle in your puppy pack. When the puppy is out and about you can also use three short blasts on the whistle to recall – giving them a treat when they do return.

The object of this exercise is to train your dog to respond to a whistle – and to stop what he is doing and return immediately to the person blowing the whistle. This exercise is not a substitute for the verbal recall; your dog should be trained to respond to both the whistle and the command ‘come’ or similar word of your choice.

The whistle carries further than your voice, and the dog will respond to the whistle no matter who is blowing it.

Instructions:

Take your dog to a room with no distractions. Have some treats in your pocket and the whistle around your neck.

When the dog is paying no attention to you, pip the whistle – three short blasts - and wait until the dog comes over to you to investigate.

As soon as he/she does, praise and give him a treat. Repeat the same sequence as soon as he is no longer paying any attention to you.

The dog will learn to come to you when he hears the whistle because he is rewarded for doing so. No need for talking during the exercise, but you can certainly praise him. No coaxing or begging for the dog to come.

Repeat this exercise until your dog makes the connection between the whistle and the reward. This will be apparent to you by the eager response to the whistle blast. Practice 5 times on the first session and 3 times per session thereafter. Only practice this exercise every second day or 3 days during the week.

Separation anxiety occurs because a dog gets stressed when alone and for a number of reasons, depending on the dog. 

Ideally a puppy will be left for short periods daily with plenty to do and this will prevent anxiety occurring at all.

Crate training and separation anxiety training can work well together. Any puppy that learns to relax in a crate or specific spot, whilst eating a treat or getting food from a toy, can also learn that’s its fine to do that whilst also being alone for a while.

Take your puppy outside to toilet before you leave them, every time you plan to leave them.

Switch on the radio or TV and set your puppy a safe toy with food in and leave the room. Remember if you're also house training that a crate or small area in the home is more likely to prevent accidents.

Go into the other room for a few minutes and over three or four days build that few minutes up until you can leave him for half an hour.

When you first leave, the puppy might cry but if the food is tempting enough, there shouldn't be more than a couple of whimpers before he tucks in. Do not return to the room initially when the puppy cries or he could easily think that you came back when he called.

Ideally you should be opening the crate door or re-entering the room when you puppy is in a happy state. Going to them after they have gone into a state of distress can allow them to learn the behaviour that ‘creating and making lots of noise gets your attention’ – once this starts it is hard to correct/change.

Stretch out the time until the puppy is totally relaxed when alone until eventually he can be left for an hour or longer but no more than four hours.

Even if a puppy is happy to be left alone, it is important to remember that his youth is his learning time, so if you are out at work its worth considering a reputable day care or walker to help your dogs social skills to thrive in the early months.

Toilet training is one task that is easier to teach over a short period of intense training than it is over a longer period of time.

The opportunity for going outside to toilet is the most important part of this training. The more a dog goes outside the more he can be rewarded for it and the quicker he learns.

Start by taking your puppy out every hour during the day for three days. Then move to two hour periods and up to four hour periods by the second week – continue at four hour periods until puppy is toilet housetrained.

Always watch your puppy indoors, you must always take responsibility for accidents – never punish them because your puppy will not learn anything other than to fear you! Take puppy out immediately and wait with him, clean the area with an odour destroyer to prevent the urge to return to the same spot.

ALWAYS TAKE PUPPY OUTSIDE AFTER THEY HAVE:

- Eaten and drank

- Woken up

- Has been playing

- Has been in his crate

- After training

- After becoming excited

- ALWAYS take puppy out before bedtime…..

WHEN YOU GO OUTSIDE FOLLOW THESE THREE SIMPLE STEPS

- Take your puppy to the same spot so that the smell encourages toileting

- Wait with your puppy and use a cue word, immediately rewarding the act

- Return indoors together

- Never leave your puppy unattended in the garden whilst young

- Your puppy’s hearing is so much better than human hearing so even the rain can worry them, with this in mind understand that a change in weather such as rain or wind my mean that your puppy will need further/extra encouragement during these times.

 Kennel Cough, or Infectious Tracheobronchitis as it is properly known, is a highly contagious disease in dogs. The cause is quite a complex interaction of common respiratory viruses and a bug called Bordetella Bronchiseptica. It is the Bordetella Bronchiseptica infection that causes the very bad cases.

Once your dog has been exposed to the infection, it will generally take five to seven days before the signs of the disease are seen. Kennel cough usually causes a dry, hacking cough, runny nose and sometimes sneezing. The gagging cough and retching associated with this disease are upsetting for your dog and you. Depending on its severity, the signs of kennel cough can last from a few days to several weeks. However, even after the coughing has stopped, your dog can remain infectious for up to three months.

Kennel Cough is a social disease (like our common colds) in that it is only spread by very close contact. When the dog coughs the bug is expelled in droplets and will immediately die unless inhaled by another dog. Accordingly, a dog can only pick up the infection when it shares common air space with an infected dog. This is one of the reasons that the illness has adopted the term “kennel cough”. Boarding kennels are an ideal environment for the disease to spread rapidly as large numbers of dogs are kept in unusually close contact. 

There is a vaccination that can be given annually which is administered as nasal drops. This vaccination will however only cover three of the possible seven strains of the disease so your puppy may still be at risk.

Natural immune boosts:

A teaspoon Vitamin C powder can be added to the drinking water to help boost immune system
www.natural-dog-health-remedies.com/vitamin-c-for-dogs.html

A teaspoon of raw virgin coconut oil can also be added to their food

(lots of information can be found with a simple ‘google’ search on this subject)

Dorwest have some amazing product to help naturally boost your dogs immune system so it is worth a little look. Young puppies are quite susceptible to Kennel Cough because their immune systems are not quite where we would like them to be due to their age but also every time you booster or give your dog a form of toxin ie flea treatment their little immune systems will take a hit.

Your puppy has been weaned onto our grain free puppy kibble.

This food can be used for the first 12-18 months dependent upon whether a small or large breed. 

After this time we have several adult foods for you to change over to – please feel free to give me a call to discuss nearer the time should you need advice on which food to transfer to and how.

You will leave here with a sack of food to get you started (which will last 3-5 weeks dependent on the puppy.

Our food

High meat content (at least 50% - Puppy food is 60%) – Rich in amino acids, vitamins & minerals.

No added Grain – This recipe is designed to be suitable for those with grain intolerance/ sensitivity. Grain has no nutritional value to your dogs diet and is used as a bulking ingredient by some other brands. 

Sweet Potato - An excellent alternative to grains, sweet potato is a complex carbohydrate high in B vitamins. 

Added Omega 3 Supplement- an excellent source of EPA & DHA to support cognitive function, visual development and help to reduce the inflammation response. 

No added artificial colours & preservatives 

NO JUNK WHAT SO EVER!! 

We will also supply you with some puppy treats which will all be grain free.

Please do not change your pups diet in the early days, a puppy’s tummy is extremely delicate, they will have only been eating solids for four weeks when they arrive in their new home so changing their diet will most certainly affect their stools

In a dog's world, it is instinctive to greet another dog by coming nose-to-nose with them. This allows them to sniff each other's faces and become acquainted with the other dog's scent. Of course, your nose is a bit higher to reach so it is only natural that your dog will jump up to get closer to your face when greeting you. This can be quiet annoying, but fortunately, the habit can be broken.

Start discouraging the behaviour early. You may think it is sweet when your dog greets you by jumping on you. For the most part, puppies think that when they jump up on someone, they are highly likely to be picked up and cuddled soon after.

You will be excited to see your puppy, but if your puppy has this tendency, you can do this by practicing the no touch, no talk, no eye contact rule when greeting your puppy.

Avoid looking or talking to your puppy until she settles down. This, in turn, will send out calming signals to her and will avoid getting her excited or anxious about your arrival.

Puppies tend to learn very quickly, so it will be much easier to train her to greet you in a calm and desirable manner the younger she is.

Although it isn't an issue when she is little, you may be encouraging a bad habit that could be difficult to break later when she becomes an adult. A small, 6kg Doodle puppy jumping up on you is quite a different story than a full-grown 28kg Doodle that could knock you over and even injure you or your guests.

Ignore her when she jumps up. One way to teach your dog, no matter her age, that jumping up is not an acceptable greeting is to ignore her during this behaviour. This involves turning your back to her and not giving her any type of attention, such as physical, vocal, or eye contact.

As soon as your dog is calm and all four paws are on the ground, tell her she is being a good girl and give her a small treat or loving pat on the head.

Try to talk in a calm voice and use calm petting techniques to avoid your dog becoming too excited again. If she returns to her jumping behaviour, turn your back again and ignore her.

In the early stages of this training, you may be turning in circles several times, but your dog will soon relate her jumping to your lack of attention and stop.

As with any training, consistency is key. This means that everyone in the household and all guests should be informed that training is in progress and be willing participants. Even the occasional attention given to your dog while she is jumping can encourage her and could result in several steps backwards in your training process.

The simple 'sit' command can also be useful in many different situations. Most importantly, it is a great distraction technique for redirecting your dog's attention from an undesirable behaviour, such as jumping up. When your dog jumps up on you, turn your back to them while keeping them in your peripheral vision. Ask her to sit and immediately praise her when she does so.

If your dog is too excited to notice that you are asking her to sit, ignore her excited behaviour until she calms down, and then repeat the command. Again, as soon as she follows your command, give her lots of praise or a special treat to let her know this is the behaviour that gets rewarded, not jumping.

With this simple command, the goal is to redirect your dog's jumping behaviour with a task that should be easy to perform and then rewarded well. Your dog will soon figure out which greetings get her your full attention and which don't.

Stay calm. The key to keeping your dog calm, and therefore exhibit calm behaviour, is to also participate in only calm behaviour when you come home. Try not to use a high-pitched or loud voice when talking to her. This includes shouting at her when she starts jumping up. This type of vocal tone could encourage more excitement and jumping.

Instead of using physical punishment to discourage bad behaviour, teach your dog what behaviours get them the most rewards from you. You will have to repeat the actions of her training multiple times before she will get it.

Don't get frustrated or upset because this will make her worse. 

 Bringing a new puppy home is exciting, and many owners are tempted to share their food with their furry friend. However, not all human foods are safe for dogs. Here’s a guide to what’s good and what’s bad for your puppy:

Safe Human Foods for Dogs

These foods can be given in moderation as treats:

✅ Lean Meats – Cooked chicken, turkey, and lean beef (unseasoned, no bones).

✅ Vegetables – Carrots, green beans, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, and pumpkin.

✅ Fruits – Apples (no seeds), bananas, blueberries, watermelon (no seeds), and strawberries.

✅ Plain Rice & Pasta – Good for sensitive stomachs.

✅ Peanut Butter – Ensure it’s xylitol-free.

✅ Kefir – A good source of probiotics, but avoid added sugars and artificial sweeteners.

Dangerous Foods to Avoid

These can be toxic or harmful to dogs:

❌ Chocolate – Contains theobromine, which is toxic to dogs.

❌ Grapes & Raisins – Can cause kidney failure.

❌ Onions – Can damage red blood cells, leading to anemia.

❌ Avocado – Contains persin, which is toxic in large amounts.

❌ Macadamia Nuts – Can cause weakness, vomiting, and tremors.

❌ Xylitol (Artificial Sweetener) – Found in gum, candy, and some peanut butter; can be deadly.

❌ Alcohol & Caffeine – Both are highly toxic to dogs.

❌ Raw Dough – Can expand in the stomach, causing serious issues.

❌ Bones (Cooked or Small Ones) – Can splinter and cause choking or digestive damage.

Always introduce new foods gradually and in small amounts, and consult your vet if you’re unsure. Puppies have sensitive digestive systems, so sticking to their regular diet is best while they’re young.

 Positive reinforcement training is a training method that rewards desired behaviors to encourage your puppy to repeat them. Instead of punishing unwanted behaviors, this method focuses on reinforcing good actions with treats, praise, toys, or other rewards your puppy enjoys.

How It Works:

1. Mark the Behavior – The moment your puppy does something right (like sitting or coming when called), use a marker (a clicker or a word like “Yes!”) to signal they did well.

2. Give a Reward – Immediately follow up with a treat, praise, or playtime to reinforce the behavior.

3. Repeat & Be Consistent – Puppies learn through repetition, so rewarding them consistently will help them understand what is expected.

Why It Works:

• Builds a Strong Bond – Your puppy learns to trust you and sees training as a fun experience.

• Encourages Confidence – Puppies feel safe learning in a positive environment.

• More Effective Long-Term – Dogs trained with positive reinforcement are more likely to obey willingly rather than out of fear.

Examples:

✅ Reward your puppy with a treat when they sit on command.

✅ Praise and pet them when they go potty outside.

✅ Give them a favorite toy when they stay calm during grooming.

Avoid punishing mistakes. Instead, redirect unwanted behaviors (like chewing shoes) by offering an appropriate alternative (a chew toy) and rewarding them for using it.

 High-Value Treats vs. Everyday Treats: What New Puppy Owners Need to Know

When training a new puppy, treats play a crucial role in reinforcing good behavior. However, not all treats are created equal! Understanding the difference between high-value treats and everyday treats will help you train more effectively.

What Are High-Value Treats?

High-value treats are extra delicious, special rewards that your puppy finds irresistible. They are usually:

✅ Soft and smelly (easier to eat and more enticing)

✅ Small and rich (like bits of cooked chicken, cheese, or freeze-dried liver)

✅ Different from regular kibble or dry treats (which your puppy gets all the time)

When to Use High-Value Treats

Use these extra-special treats for important training moments, such as:

• Teaching new commands (sit, stay, come)

• Training in distracting environments (like the park)

• Encouraging brave behavior (e.g., meeting new people, vet visits)

• Rewarding outstanding responses (like coming to you instead of chasing a squirrel)

Since these treats are richer, use them sparingly to avoid overfeeding.

What Are Everyday Treats?

Everyday treats are lower-value, meaning they are still enjoyable but not as exciting as high-value treats. They might include:

✅ Regular kibble

✅ Dry, crunchy training treats

✅ Store-bought low-calorie biscuits

When to Use Everyday Treats

These are great for:

• Frequent reinforcement (like potty training rewards)

• Practicing well-known commands

• Casual rewards for good behavior throughout the day

Key Takeaways

Use high-value treats for challenging or exciting situations.

Use everyday treats for routine training and rewards.

Keep treats small to prevent overfeeding.

Rotate treat types to keep your puppy motivated!

By using the right treats at the right time, you’ll build a strong bond with your puppy and make training both fun and effective!

REMEMBER THAT IT IS IMPORTANT NOT TO OVERFILL YOUR PUPPY WITH TREATS, WE NEED THEM TO EAT THEIR MEALS SO CONSIDER THEIR SIZE SO THAT YOU ARE NOT OVERFEEDING BETWEEN MEALS 

Choosing a Good Food for Your Dog

Selecting the right food for your dog is essential for their health and longevity. Many commercial dog foods contain ingredients that serve more as fillers than actual nutrition, so it’s important to understand what to look for on the label.

Grain in Dog Food: A Bulking Ingredient, Not Nutrition

Grains like corn, wheat, and rice are commonly found in dog food, but they offer little nutritional value for dogs. While some brands claim they provide energy and fiber, the reality is that dogs process protein and fat more efficiently than carbohydrates. Grains are primarily used as cheap fillers to bulk up the food and reduce production costs. Many dogs also have sensitivities to grains, which can lead to digestive issues, skin problems, and allergies.

Instead of grains, high-quality dog food should focus on animal proteins and healthy fats, which are biologically appropriate for dogs and help maintain muscle mass, energy levels, and overall health.

What is Meat Meal?

Meat meal is a concentrated protein source made by rendering animal tissues (such as muscle, organs, and bones) at high temperatures to remove moisture and fat. While this process does result in a higher protein percentage, it also depletes essential nutrients and enzymes.

The biggest concern with meat meal is quality control. Since it is a processed product, the source of the meat can be questionable. Some lower-quality dog foods use “meat meal” from unnamed sources, which may include by-products and lower-grade meat scraps.

Why Freshly Prepared Meat is Better

Freshly prepared meat is a superior option because it is minimally processed, preserving its natural nutrients, amino acids, and enzymes. Dogs thrive on high-quality, species-appropriate diets rich in fresh animal proteins such as chicken, beef, lamb, or fish. Fresh ingredients also enhance digestibility and nutrient absorption, ensuring that your dog gets the most out of their food.

When choosing a dog food, look for:

✔ Named animal proteins (e.g., “fresh chicken,” “salmon,” “duck”)

✔ No grains, corn, or wheat fillers

✔ Natural, whole-food ingredients

✔ Minimal processing for maximum nutrition

By choosing a high-quality, protein-rich diet, you’ll help your dog live a healthier, happier life!

 Keeping a dog’s ears free from excessive hair is crucial for their health and comfort. Here’s why:

1. Prevents Infections – Excess hair traps moisture, debris, and wax, creating a breeding ground for bacteria and yeast, which can lead to painful ear infections.

2. Enhances Airflow – Good ventilation helps keep the ears dry and reduces the risk of irritation, especially in breeds with floppy ears or dense fur.

3. Reduces Wax and Debris Build-Up – Hair can trap dirt and wax, making it harder for the ear to clean itself naturally, leading to blockages and discomfort.

4. Prevents Matting and Discomfort – Tangled or matted hair in and around the ear can cause irritation and even pain, making it difficult for the dog to shake out debris naturally.

5. Allows for Easier Monitoring – Keeping the ears clear makes it easier to check for signs of infection, parasites, or inflammation before they become serious issues.

Regular grooming and ear maintenance help keep your dog’s ears healthy, comfortable, and free from preventable problems.

Thornit Canker Powder can help to maintain healthy ears, see out other post for further information.

 Puppies generally need multiple meals a day to support their growth and energy needs. Here’s a general guideline for when to reduce meal frequency:

• 4 Meals per Day → Until about 8-12 weeks old

• 3 Meals per Day → From 3 to 6 months old

• 2 Meals per Day → From 6 months old and onward

Most dogs continue on a twice-daily feeding schedule into adulthood. However, smaller breeds might benefit from staying on three meals a day longer, while larger breeds can transition earlier if they handle it well. Always monitor your puppy’s weight, energy levels, and digestion when adjusting meal frequency.

 An ill-fitted harness can cause several physical and behavioral issues in dogs, including:

Physical Damage:

1. Shoulder Restriction & Joint Strain – Poorly fitted harnesses, especially those that cross the shoulders, can limit movement, leading to long-term joint problems and muscle strain.

2. Chafing & Skin Irritation – Straps that are too tight or rub in sensitive areas (e.g., behind the front legs or across the chest) can cause sores, hair loss, and discomfort.

3. Neck & Spine Misalignment – Some harnesses place pressure on the wrong areas, leading to poor posture, back pain, and even long-term spinal issues.

4. Breathing Restriction – A harness that sits too high on the chest can put pressure on the throat and windpipe, making it harder for the dog to breathe, especially in brachycephalic breeds.

Behavioral Issues:

1. Encouraging Pulling – Many harnesses allow dogs to pull harder without discomfort, reinforcing bad leash manners.

2. Lack of Control – Ill-fitted or loose harnesses make it easier for a dog to slip out, which can be dangerous in high-traffic areas.

Why a Collar & Lead Can Be Better for Training:

• Better Communication – A lead attached to a collar allows for clearer, more precise corrections.

• Discourages Pulling – Properly used, a collar provides gentle but effective control over the dog’s movements.

• Supports Natural Movement – Unlike restrictive harnesses, a collar allows a dog to move freely without affecting gait or posture.

 Many dog owners assume that repeatedly throwing a ball for their puppy or dog is a great way to exercise them, but this type of activity can actually be harmful in several ways:

1. Joint and Growth Plate Damage (Puppies)

For puppies, their bones and joints are still developing. High-impact activities like chasing and suddenly stopping for a ball can cause damage to their growth plates, leading to long-term joint issues such as arthritis or deformities.

2. Overstimulation and Adrenaline Spikes

Chasing a ball repeatedly triggers an adrenaline rush. If done too often, dogs can become over-aroused and struggle to calm down after play. This can lead to obsessive behaviors, difficulty relaxing, and even anxiety.

3. Increased Risk of Injuries

Quick turns, sudden stops, and jumping for the ball can put strain on the dog’s muscles, tendons, and ligaments. This increases the risk of injuries like torn cruciate ligaments (ACL injuries) or sprains, especially in active or high-energy breeds.

4. Unnatural Movement Patterns

The repetitive motion of ball chasing encourages unnatural, high-impact movement patterns that can wear down joints over time. Unlike natural canine play, which involves varied movements, ball chasing involves repeated sprints and abrupt stops that are hard on the body.

5. Mental Exhaustion vs. Healthy Stimulation

While ball chasing tires a dog out physically, it does little to engage their mind. Dogs need balanced mental and physical exercise, such as sniffing games, problem-solving activities, and controlled play, which are healthier for their overall well-being.

6. Risk of Heatstroke and Overexertion

Dogs, especially those with thick coats or short noses (like Bulldogs), can overheat quickly. Since ball chasing triggers their prey drive, they may push themselves beyond their limits without realizing they’re overheating, which can be dangerous.

Healthier Alternatives to Ball Throwing

Instead of high-impact ball chasing, consider these activities:

• Sniffing walks (letting dogs explore and sniff enriches their experience)

• Scatter feeding (hiding treats in the grass for them to find)

• Training games (teaching tricks, recall, or agility in a controlled way)

• Flirt poles (a controlled way to engage prey drive safely)

• Tug games (great for bonding and controlled energy release)

While occasional ball play is okay in moderation, it’s important to balance it with other activities that promote a dog’s physical and mental well-being without causing harm.

For new dog owners, it’s important to understand that sniffing is one of the most essential activities for a dog’s physical and mental well-being. Here’s why:

1. A Dog’s Primary Sense is Smell – Dogs experience the world through their nose. While humans rely heavily on sight, dogs use their incredible sense of smell to gather information about their surroundings, other animals, and people.

2. Sniffing Provides Mental Stimulation – Engaging in scent work or simply allowing a dog to sniff on walks prevents boredom and provides necessary mental enrichment. It helps tire them out just as much as physical exercise.

3. Sniffing Reduces Stress and Anxiety – Sniffing activates a dog’s brain in a calming way, similar to how problem-solving or deep breathing works for humans. Allowing them to explore scents naturally lowers their stress levels.

4. Sniffing is How Dogs Communicate – When dogs sniff each other, they are exchanging important social information, much like humans do through conversation. It helps them understand who is around and what’s happening in their environment.

5. Suppressing Sniffing Can Lead to Behavioral Issues – If a dog is constantly pulled away from sniffing, they may become frustrated, hyperactive, or even anxious. Allowing them time to sniff freely can prevent unwanted behaviors.

6. Sniffing Makes Walks More Enjoyable for Dogs – While humans walk for exercise, dogs walk to explore the world. A slow, sniff-filled walk is often more fulfilling for them than a fast-paced, structured one.

Encouraging your dog to sniff on walks and in safe environments is one of the easiest ways to keep them happy, healthy, and engaged.

 Panacur (fenbendazole) is one of the best worming medications for puppies because it is highly effective, broad-spectrum, and gentle on young dogs. 

Here’s why puppy owners should consider Panacur:

1. Effective Against Multiple Parasites – Panacur treats common intestinal worms, including roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and some tapeworms. It also helps with giardia, a common cause of diarrhea in puppies.

2. Safe for Young Puppies – It can be used on puppies as young as two weeks old, making it a great choice for early deworming.

3. Gentle on the Stomach – Unlike some wormers that may cause strong side effects, Panacur is generally well tolerated.

4. Flexible Dosing – It comes in liquid, granule, and paste forms, making it easy to mix with food for fussy eaters.

5. Proven Track Record – Panacur has been widely used by veterinarians and breeders for years, demonstrating consistent effectiveness and safety.

Something to remember

WE CANNOT PREVENT WORMS, WE CAN ONLY TREAT THEM...

Prescription is not necessary

Trusted websites are as follows

https://www.viovet.co.uk/Panacur-Wormer-Granules-for-Dogs-Cats/c58/

https://www.petdrugsonline.co.uk/panacur

 Pumpkin and pumpkin seeds can be great additions to a dog’s diet because they offer several health benefits:

1. Digestive Health

Pumpkin is rich in fiber, which helps regulate digestion. It can relieve both diarrhea (by firming up loose stools) and constipation (by adding bulk and moisture to the stool). The fiber also supports healthy gut bacteria.

2. Natural Dewormer

Pumpkin seeds contain cucurbitacin, a compound that has natural anti-parasitic properties. This can help eliminate intestinal worms like tapeworms and roundworms.

3. Supports Urinary Health

The natural oils in pumpkin seeds can promote a healthy bladder and may help with urinary incontinence in some dogs.

4. Rich in Nutrients

Pumpkin is packed with vitamins A, C, and E, along with potassium and iron. These nutrients support eye health, immune function, and overall vitality.

5. Weight Management

Because pumpkin is low in calories and high in fiber, it can be used to help dogs feel full without adding extra weight—great for weight control!

How to Feed Pumpkin and Pumpkin Seeds

• Plain, cooked, or canned pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling) is best. Mix a small amount into their food (1-4 tablespoons, depending on size).

• Raw or roasted pumpkin seeds should be unsalted and unseasoned. You can grind them and sprinkle them over food.

Adding pumpkin and seeds to your dog’s diet in moderation can be a great way to support their health naturally!

 Hotspots, or acute moist dermatitis, are painful, inflamed skin lesions that can develop quickly on your pet. While they can be caused by allergies, parasites, or excessive licking, diet also plays a significant role.

Feeding low-quality food and cheap treats filled with artificial ingredients, fillers, and low-grade proteins can contribute to skin irritation, inflammation, and poor coat health. Many budget-friendly treats contain excessive sugars, artificial colors, and preservatives, which may trigger allergic reactions or weaken the immune system, making your pet more susceptible to hotspots.

To help prevent hotspots, choose high-quality food and treats with natural ingredients, lean proteins, and healthy fats like Omega-3s. Always check labels and avoid products with artificial additives and excessive fillers. 

If hotspots persist, consult your vet to rule out underlying allergies or other health issues. 

WORTH HAVING IN YOUR DOG FIRST-AID BOX TO HELP CALM THE SKIN

http://viovet.co.uk/Leucillin-Antiseptic-Spray-for-Animal-Wounds-Injuries/c16808/?sct_t=1739611622&sct_q=leucillin+spray&sct_r=1

 A puppy’s diet should be maintained until their growth plates close, which typically happens around 18 months of age, especially in larger breeds. Growth plates are soft areas of developing cartilage found at the ends of long bones. Until they close, they are vulnerable to damage, and proper nutrition plays a crucial role in ensuring healthy skeletal development.

Why Stick to a Puppy Diet Until Growth Plates Close?

1. Optimal Growth & Bone Development – Puppy food is formulated with the right balance of calcium, phosphorus, and other nutrients needed to support strong bones and prevent developmental issues like hip dysplasia or osteochondrosis.

2. Adequate Calories & Protein – Puppies have higher energy and protein requirements than adult dogs. Puppy food ensures they get enough nutrients to fuel growth without excessive weight gain, which could stress immature joints.

3. Prevention of Growth Abnormalities – Switching to adult food too early can result in improper calcium-to-phosphorus ratios or insufficient nutrients, leading to skeletal issues or stunted growth.

4. Support for Muscle & Immune System Development – The high-quality proteins and essential fatty acids in puppy food help build lean muscle and strengthen the immune system, which is crucial as they grow.

When to Transition to Adult Food

Small and medium breeds may mature around 12 months, but large and giant breeds take longer—often 18 months to 2 years. Always consult your veterinarian before making the switch to ensure your puppy’s growth plates have fully closed and they are ready for adult maintenance food.

By keeping your puppy on the right diet for their full growth period, you’re setting them up for a lifetime of good health and strong joints!

 Toilet training a puppy from eight weeks of age requires patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement. Here’s a step-by-step guide for new puppy owners:

1. Establish a Routine

• Take your puppy outside frequently, at least every hour.

• Always take them out after waking up, eating, drinking, and playing.

• Use the same spot each time, as the scent will encourage them to go.

2. Supervise Closely

• Keep your puppy in sight to prevent accidents.

• If you can’t watch them, use a crate or playpen to limit their space. Puppies naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area.

3. Use a Cue Word

• Say a cue like “wee wees” while they are toileting, so they associate the word with the action.

• Praise them or give a small treat immediately after they finish.

4. Handle Accidents Calmly

• If you catch them in the act, interrupt gently (clap or say “oops”) and take them outside.

• Never punish them after an accident—it can cause fear.

• Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleaner to remove the smell.

5. Nighttime Training

• Take them out just before bed and first thing in the morning.

• Young puppies may need a trip outside once or twice during the night.

6. Gradually Extend Time Between Breaks

• As they grow, they can hold their bladder longer (about one hour per month of age).

• By 4-6 months, most puppies can go a few hours without a break.

With consistency, most puppies are reliably toilet trained by 4-6 months of age. Keep training positive, and be patient—every puppy learns at their own pace!

 For new puppy owners, it’s important to understand that young puppies should not be left alone for long periods. Their ability to handle alone time depends on their age, training, and individual temperament.

General Guidelines for Leaving a Puppy Alone:

• 8-10 weeks old: No more than 1 hour at a time. Puppies at this age need frequent potty breaks, socialization, and comfort.

• 10-12 weeks old: About 2 hours at a time. They are still adjusting to their new environment and need supervision.

• 3-6 months old: Around 3-4 hours. As they grow, they can hold their bladder longer, but they still require attention and interaction.

• 6+ months: 4-6 hours max. Most puppies can handle this duration, but they should have access to water, a comfortable space, and mental stimulation (toys, chews, etc.).

Tips for Helping Puppies Adjust to Alone Time:

• Gradual Training: Start with short periods and gradually increase the time alone.

• Safe Space: Use a crate or puppy-proofed area with soft bedding and toys.

• Potty Breaks: Puppies under 6 months need frequent bathroom breaks, so plan accordingly.

• Exercise & Stimulation: A tired puppy is more likely to rest while alone, so provide playtime before leaving.

• Check-Ins: If possible, arrange for a pet sitter, friend, or family member to visit during longer absences.

Leaving a puppy alone for too long can lead to anxiety, accidents, and destructive behavior. Setting a routine early on helps them grow into confident, independent dogs.

 When taking your puppy for a walk, it’s important to remember that the walk is for them, not for you. Here’s why:

1. Exploration is Key

Dogs experience the world through their noses. Sniffing helps them learn about their environment, feel mentally stimulated, and even reduce stress. If you’re walking at a fast pace or constantly pulling them along, they miss out on this essential part of their walk.

2. Proper Socialization

Puppies need positive experiences with new sights, sounds, and smells to grow into well-adjusted adult dogs. Allowing them to stop, observe, and engage with their surroundings (safely) helps them develop confidence.

3. Training & Recall Practice

Walks are a great opportunity to reinforce recall and leash manners. If a dog is only ever led on a strict, fast-paced walk, they don’t learn to check in with you or respond to commands. Taking time to practice recall in safe areas helps build their responsiveness and strengthens your bond.

4. Meeting Their Needs Prevents Frustration

If a puppy isn’t allowed to walk at their own pace, sniff, and explore, they may become frustrated, leading to unwanted behaviors like pulling on the leash, barking, or ignoring commands.

5. Walks Should Be Enriching, Not Just Exercise

While exercise is important, mental stimulation is just as crucial. A slow, sniff-filled walk can be more fulfilling for your dog than a rushed one where they don’t get to process their environment.

A good walk is one where your puppy gets to explore, sniff, and engage with the world at their pace. By making the walk about them, you’re not only meeting their needs but also building a stronger relationship and encouraging better behavior in the long run.

So next time you head out, let your puppy lead the way (within reason), take breaks for sniffing, and use the time to reinforce positive behaviors like recall and loose-leash walking.

 Tree bark powder can be a beneficial supplement for puppies when used appropriately. Here’s how it may help:

1. Digestive Health

Certain tree barks, like slippery elm or pine bark, contain natural fibers and compounds that support digestion. They can help soothe an irritated stomach, reduce diarrhea, and improve gut health by promoting beneficial bacteria.

2. Anti-Inflammatory Properties

Some bark powders, such as pine bark extract, have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. These can support a puppy’s developing immune system and may help reduce inflammation, especially useful for growing joints and muscles.

3. Natural Source of Nutrients

Tree bark powders can contain beneficial compounds like polyphenols, flavonoids, and prebiotic fibers, which contribute to overall well-being. These nutrients may help with skin and coat health, improve circulation, and support cognitive development in young dogs.

4. Supports Oral Health

Certain bark powders can act as a mild abrasive in the diet, helping to naturally clean teeth and promote better oral hygiene by reducing plaque buildup.

5. Helps with Stress and Anxiety

Some tree barks, like magnolia bark, are known for their calming properties. This can be particularly beneficial for puppies experiencing anxiety due to separation, training, or environmental changes.

How to Use Tree Bark Powder for Puppies

• Always choose a high-quality, pet-safe bark powder (such as slippery elm or pine bark).

• Start with small amounts and mix it into your puppy’s food.

TRUSTED PRODUCT

https://www.dorwest.com/products/tree-barks-powder-for-dogs-and-cats

 Dorwest is a well-known company specializing in natural herbal supplements and homeopathic remedies for pets, particularly dogs and cats. Established in 1948 in the UK, Dorwest has built a strong reputation for providing high-quality, vet-approved products that support pet health and well-being.

What Makes Dorwest Unique?

• Natural Ingredients – The company focuses on herbal and botanical remedies, using ingredients like garlic, fenugreek, valerian, and tree bark extracts.

• Veterinary Approved – Their products are often recommended by vets and are manufactured to high-quality standards.

• Targeted Health Support – Dorwest offers supplements for digestion, joint care, skin and coat health, anxiety relief, and overall immune support.

• Herbal & Homeopathic Focus – They specialize in traditional remedies that complement modern veterinary care.

Popular Dorwest Products

• Tree Bark Powder – Helps with digestion and soothes upset stomachs.

• Garlic & Fenugreek Tablets – Support immune function and skin health.

• Scullcap & Valerian Tablets – A natural calming aid for stress and anxiety.

• JointWell Tablets – Promote joint mobility and reduce stiffness.

For new puppy owners, Dorwest provides gentle, natural options to support their pet’s development and overall health. Always consult a vet before introducing any new supplements, especially for young dogs.

When you bring home a new puppy, ensuring they receive the right vaccinations is essential for their health and well-being. In the UK, core vaccinations protect against severe and potentially fatal diseases. Here’s what you need to know:

Primary Puppy Vaccination Schedule

Puppies typically receive their first set of vaccinations from 6 to 8 weeks of age, usually given by the breeder. You should check with them to confirm what has already been administered. The schedule usually follows:

1. First Vaccination (6–8 weeks old):

• Canine parvovirus

• Canine distemper virus

• Canine adenovirus (hepatitis)

• Leptospirosis (various strains depending on the vaccine brand)

2. Second Vaccination (10–12 weeks old):

• Booster for the same diseases mentioned above

• Some vets recommend a third dose at 16 weeks to ensure full immunity.  However, not all vets offer this and not all owners accept it - which begs the question as to whether it is actually a necessity...?  In 40 years of owning and breeding dogs we have NEVER given the third vaccination as we dont like overloading our dogs with unnecessary chemicals.

3. Optional Vaccinations:

• Kennel Cough (Bordetella bronchiseptica & Canine Parainfluenza):Recommended if your puppy will be around other dogs frequently (e.g., doggy daycare, kennels, or training classes).  Can sometimes cause symptoms so we as breeders suggest that this is not given while very young as their little immune systems are still working very hard.  we would always suggest that owners stagger this vaccination and not give it at same time as other medication/vaccinations.

• Rabies: Required only if you plan to travel abroad with your dog under the Pet Travel Scheme (PETS).

Adult Dog Vaccination Schedule

After their initial puppy vaccinations, dogs require regular boosters throughout their lives to maintain immunity.

1. Annual Boosters (Every Year):

• Leptospirosis

• Kennel Cough (if needed)

2. Core Vaccine Boosters (Every 3 Years):

• Canine Parvovirus

• Canine Distemper

• Canine Adenovirus (Hepatitis)

3. Rabies (Every 3 Years, if applicable): If you travel abroad with your dog, rabies vaccinations must be kept up to date per UK pet travel regulations.

Additional Considerations

• Titer Testing: If you’re unsure whether your dog still has immunity, some vets offer blood tests (titer tests) to check antibody levels before giving boosters.

By keeping up with vaccinations, you ensure your puppy grows into a healthy adult dog and remains protected throughout their life.  

It is worth knowing that some vets still push the CORE vaccination every year - The WSAVA (World Small Animal Veterinary Assocation) have released guidelines to all saying that the CORE vaccination should be given every three years and not annually to adult dogs.  With a view to senior dogs not needing further vaccinations after the age of eight.

Be your dogs voice in this - you are well within your rights in the UK to opt out of annual vacciantions.

 #Chewing is a natural behavior for puppies and serves several purposes:

1. Teething Relief – Puppies start teething around 3-4 weeks old and continue until about 6 months. Chewing soothes sore gums and helps new teeth break through.

2. Exploration – Puppies explore the world with their mouths, much like human babies do.

3. Boredom and Energy Release – If a puppy isn’t mentally or physically stimulated enough, they may chew out of frustration or boredom.

4. Stress and Anxiety – Chewing can be a way to self-soothe when a puppy is feeling anxious, such as when left alone.

How to Stop Destructive Chewing

While chewing is normal, it’s important to redirect it to appropriate items:

1. Provide Plenty of Chew Toys – Have a variety of textures and sizes so your puppy doesn’t seek out furniture or shoes.

2. Supervise and Redirect – If you catch them chewing something they shouldn’t, calmly take it away and offer a proper chew. Praise them when they use it.

3. Puppy-Proof Your Home – Keep shoes, cords, and other tempting objects out of reach.

4. Use Positive Reinforcement – Reward your puppy when they chew the right things. Avoid punishment, as it may cause fear or anxiety.

5. Provide Mental and Physical Stimulation – Regular exercise and training sessions help prevent boredom-related chewing.

Safe, Natural Dried Chews (No Rawhide)

Rawhide can be difficult to digest and sometimes contains harmful chemicals, so here are safer alternatives:

• Air-Dried Beef or Lamb Trachea – Soft enough for puppies, packed with natural glucosamine for joint health.

• Dried Fish Skins – A great source of omega-3s for a healthy coat and skin.

• Beef Tendons – Long-lasting, fully digestible, and help clean teeth.

• Deer or Elk Antlers (Split for Puppies) – Hard and durable, but should be given under supervision.

• Himalayan Yak Chews – Made from hardened cheese, they last a long time and are gentle on digestion.

• Rabbit or Duck Feet – Rich in natural glucosamine and chondroitin for joint support.

• Natural Hooves (Unfilled) – Durable and engaging, but best given when supervised.

• Dried Sweet Potato Chews – A softer vegetarian option for gentle chewing.

By providing appropriate chews and training, you can help your puppy develop healthy chewing habits while keeping your belongings safe!

 Line brushing is an essential technique for keeping your puppy’s coat tangle-free and healthy, especially for breeds with longer or denser fur. Here’s a step-by-step guide using The Simpsons blue-handled slicker brush, one of the best slicker brushes available, as an example.

What is Line Brushing?

Line brushing is a method of brushing where you work in sections, lifting the hair to reach the undercoat and ensuring every layer is properly brushed out. This prevents matting and keeps the coat looking its best.

Why Use The Simpsons Blue-Handled Slicker Brush?

This brush is highly recommended because it has:

✔ Soft-yet-effective fine wire bristles to remove tangles and loose hair without scratching the skin.

✔ A comfortable, ergonomic blue handle for easy grip and less hand fatigue.

✔ A well-balanced design that works well for puppies and dogs of all sizes.

How to Line Brush Your Puppy

1. Prepare Your Puppy

Make sure your puppy is calm and comfortable. You can brush them on your lap, a grooming table, or a non-slip surface like a yoga mat. Give treats to create a positive association with brushing.

2. Start at the Bottom

• Begin at the lowest part of the body (like a back leg or the belly) and work your way up.

• Use your free hand to lift the fur so you expose the hair in layers.

• Hold the fur gently at the base to avoid pulling on the skin.

3. Brush in Sections

• With The Simpsons slicker brush, start brushing at the skin and move outward in the direction of hair growth.

• Work in small sections, making sure each layer is fully brushed before moving up.

• If you hit a tangle, use gentle strokes to break it up—don’t yank.

4. Check Your Work

After you finish a section, run a comb through it to ensure you haven’t missed any knots. A metal comb works best for this.

5. Praise and Reward

Give your puppy treats and praise throughout the process to make grooming a fun and stress-free experience.

By using The Simpsons blue-handled slicker brush and the line brushing method, you’ll keep your puppy’s coat tangle-free, soft, and healthy. Regular brushing also strengthens your bond and gets your pup used to grooming for life!

A metal comb should also be in your grooming equipment.

Vetbed, or vet bedding, is a highly practical and comfortable bedding choice for pets, especially for puppies, older dogs, or animals recovering from surgery. Here’s why it works so well:

1. Warmth & Comfort

Vetbedding is made from thick, soft fleece that provides insulation and keeps pets warm. It mimics the feeling of a mother’s fur, making it particularly comforting for young animals.

2. Drains Moisture Away

One of its key benefits is its ability to wick away moisture. Liquid drains through to keep the top layer dry, ensuring pets stay warm and comfortable even if they have accidents or spills. This makes it ideal for puppies, incontinent pets, or post-surgery recovery.

3. Hygienic & Easy to Wash

Vetbedding is machine washable at high temperatures, making it easy to keep clean and free from bacteria, fleas, and allergens. It dries quickly, meaning it’s ready to use again in no time.

4. Non-Irritating & Hypoallergenic

Made from synthetic fibers, vetbedding is non-toxic and safe for sensitive pets. It won’t cause skin irritation and is recommended for pets with allergies.

5. Durable & Long-Lasting

Unlike blankets that can tear or flatten over time, vetbedding is designed to be tough and resilient. It maintains its thickness and structure even after multiple washes.

6. Non-Slip Options Available

Some types come with a rubber backing to prevent slipping on hard floors, making them great for tiled or wooden surfaces.

7. Versatile Use

Vetbedding can be used in crates, whelping boxes, cars, kennels, and even as a cozy surface for elderly pets who need extra joint support.

It’s a simple yet highly effective bedding solution that keeps pets warm, dry, and comfortable while being easy to maintain.

 Boosting your puppy’s immune system naturally is all about promoting good overall health through nutrition, exercise, and mindful care. Here are some ways puppy owners can help support their pup’s immune system:

1. Proper Nutrition:

• Feed your puppy a high-quality, balanced diet rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Look for foods that contain natural ingredients like lean proteins (chicken, turkey), sweet potatoes, and fruits like blueberries, which provide important nutrients and antioxidants to fight off illness.

• Omega-3 fatty acids, found in fish oils or flaxseed, are also great for supporting the immune system and reducing inflammation.

2. Probiotics:

• Probiotics are beneficial bacteria that help support gut health. A healthy gut is closely linked to a strong immune system. You can find probiotic supplements made for dogs or look for dog foods that include probiotics.

3. Herbs and Natural Supplements:

• Some natural herbs are known for boosting the immune system. For example, echinacea, astragalus, and turmeric have immune-boosting properties and can be given as supplements (be sure to consult your vet for proper dosage).

4. Exercise and Play:

• Regular exercise helps maintain a strong immune system. Playtime and walks keep your puppy active, fit, and reduce stress, which is vital for overall health.

5. Quality Sleep:

• Just like humans, puppies need adequate rest to recharge. Make sure your puppy has a quiet, comfortable space to sleep and rest. A well-rested puppy has a more effective immune system.

6. Hydration:

• Keep your puppy hydrated with fresh, clean water. Hydration is key for maintaining healthy bodily functions, including the immune system.

7. Limit Stress:

• Puppies, just like humans, can experience stress, which can suppress their immune system. Create a calm environment, offer lots of love and attention, and avoid overwhelming situations.

8. Regular Vet Check-ups:

• Even though you’re focusing on natural methods, regular vet check-ups are important to monitor your puppy’s health. Vaccinations and flea/tick preventatives are crucial for long-term immunity.

By combining these natural methods with proper care, you’ll help your puppy maintain a strong immune system and overall good health. Always check with your vet before introducing new supplements or foods to make sure they are safe and appropriate for your pup’s breed, age, and health condition.

 Here’s a checklist of essential items to buy before your new puppy comes home:

1. Food and Water

• Food & Water Bowls (preferably stainless steel or ceramic)

• Puppy Food (appropriate for your puppy’s age, breed, and size)

• Food Storage Container (airtight to keep food fresh)

2. Sleeping and Comfort

• Dog Bed (comfortable, washable, and sized appropriately for your puppy)

• Blankets or Towels (for warmth and comfort)

• Crate (for training and safe transport; ensure it’s the right size for your puppy)

3. Grooming Essentials

• Brush/Comb (appropriate for your puppy’s coat type)

• Puppy Shampoo (gentle and designed for puppies)

• Nail Clippers or Grinder (if you’re planning to trim their nails yourself)

• Toothbrush & Toothpaste (puppy-safe oral care)

4. Training and Behavior

• Leash (lightweight and adjustable)

• Collar (soft, adjustable, and properly fitted)

• ID Tag (with your contact information)

• Training Treats (small and easy to give for reward-based training)

5. Health and Safety

• Puppy First Aid Kit (with basic supplies like bandages, antiseptic wipes, etc.)

• Flea, Tick & Worm Treatments (chat with your breeder to see what they do in the first eight weeks)

• Veterinarian’s Contact Info (for emergencies)

• Microchip or Tag (ensure your puppy is identifiable in case they get lost)

6. Toys and Enrichment

• Chew Toys (soft and safe for puppies, especially for teething)

• Interactive Toys (for mental stimulation and to keep them engaged)

• Balls (small, soft, and appropriate for their size)

• Puzzle Toys (to challenge and entertain them)

7. Transportation

• Car Seat Cover (for safe and clean car rides)

• Car Travel Crate or Dog Seat Belt (for secure travel)

8. Miscellaneous

• Puppy Gate (for blocking off areas of the house)

• Poop Bags (for cleaning up after walks)

• Puppy-Specific Clothing (if your puppy will need protection in colder climates)

Having these items ready will make your puppy’s transition smoother and ensure their needs are met right away!

 Many new puppy owners love using candles and plug-in air fresheners to keep their home smelling fresh, but not all of these products are safe for dogs. Some contain toxic ingredients that can harm your pup’s respiratory system, skin, or even internal organs.

Why Are Some Candles and Plug-Ins Toxic to Dogs?

1. Essential Oils – Many candles and plug-ins contain essential oils like tea tree, eucalyptus, cinnamon, and citrus, which can be toxic to dogs. These can cause skin irritation, respiratory issues, or even liver damage if ingested or absorbed through the skin.

2. Paraffin Wax – Some candles are made from paraffin wax, which releases harmful chemicals like benzene and toluene when burned. These fumes can be irritating to your dog’s lungs, especially if they have respiratory issues.

3. Artificial Fragrances & VOCs – Many plug-ins and scented candles use synthetic fragrances that release volatile organic compounds (VOCs). These chemicals can cause headaches, dizziness, or breathing problems in dogs.

4. Heavy Metals in Wicks – Some candles have metal-core wicks that contain lead or zinc, which can be harmful when burned and inhaled by your pet.

5. Risk of Ingestion – Curious puppies may chew on candles, wax melts, or plug-in refills, leading to toxic exposure or digestive blockages.

Safer Alternatives for Dog Owners

• Choose soy, coconut, or beeswax candles with natural, pet-safe essential oils (such as lavender or chamomile).

• Use baking soda or activated charcoal to naturally absorb odors.

• Try pet-safe air purifiers instead of plug-ins.

• If using essential oils, ensure they are diluted and safe for dogs before diffusing.

• Always keep candles, wax melts, and plug-ins out of reach of your puppy to prevent ingestion.

By being mindful of what you use in your home, you can keep your puppy safe while still maintaining a fresh-smelling environment!

 Washing your puppy’s soiled blankets and bed with vinegar is an effective, natural way to remove odors and stains while keeping fabrics fresh and safe for your pup. Here’s a simple step-by-step guide:

What You’ll Need:

• White distilled vinegar

• Baking soda (optional, for extra odor removal)

• Mild, fragrance-free detergent

• Washing machine or bath

• Hot water washing machine

Steps for Machine Washing:

1. Pre-Treat Stains:

• If the blanket or bed cover has urine stains, blot up excess moisture with paper towels.

• Spray or soak the stained areas with a mixture of equal parts white vinegar and water. Let it sit for 10–15 minutes before washing.

2. Load the Washing Machine:

• Place the soiled blankets and removable bed covers in the washer.

• Avoid overloading to allow thorough cleaning.

3. Add Vinegar and Detergent:

• Use ½ to 1 cup of white vinegar in place of fabric softener.

• Add your regular mild detergent. If odors are strong, sprinkle ½ cup of baking soda into the drum for extra deodorizing power.

4. Use Hot Water (If Safe for Fabric):

• Hot water helps break down stains and kill bacteria. If the fabric label recommends cold washing, follow the instructions.

5. Rinse Thoroughly:

• Run an extra rinse cycle to ensure all detergent and vinegar are removed.

6. Dry Completely:

• If safe for the material, dry on a low heat setting or air-dry in the sun. Sunlight naturally disinfects and removes lingering odors.

For Non-Removable Beds:

1. Spot Clean Stains:

• Mix equal parts vinegar and water in a spray bottle.

• Spray the affected area and blot with a clean towel.

2. Hand Wash:

• Fill a bath or large basin with warm water.

• Add 1 cup of vinegar and a small amount of mild detergent.

• Submerge the bed, scrub gently, and let it soak for 15–30 minutes.

3. Rinse and Dry:

• Rinse thoroughly with clean water and press out excess moisture.

• Dry in the sun or with a fan to prevent mold.

Vinegar is safe for pets and an excellent natural deodorizer, leaving your puppy’s bedding fresh and clean without harsh chemicals!

Dogs have an excellent sense of smell so removing the smell of urine completely will help to avoid reoccurring accidents.

 Positive reinforcement training is a highly effective and humane way to teach animals (and even people) new behaviors. It works by rewarding desired behaviors, making them more likely to be repeated. Here’s a basic guide to using positive reinforcement for training:

1. Choose a Reward

• Use something the learner finds highly motivating. For dogs, this could be small treats, praise, toys, or playtime.

• For humans, rewards might include verbal praise, incentives, or privileges.

2. Timing is Key

• Reward the behavior immediately after it happens so the learner associates the action with the reward.

• If using a marker (like a clicker or a verbal “yes”), make sure to mark the behavior at the exact moment it occurs.

3. Be Consistent

• Reinforce the desired behavior every time it happens at first.

• Once the behavior is learned, switch to intermittent reinforcement (rewarding sometimes but not always) to strengthen it.

4. Keep Training Sessions Short & Fun

• Shorter, more frequent sessions (5-10 minutes) work best.

• End on a positive note to keep motivation high.

5. Shape Behavior Step by Step

• If a behavior is complex, reinforce small steps leading to the full behavior (this is called shaping).

• Example: To teach a dog to lie down, reward when they lower their head, then when they bend their legs, then when they fully lie down.

6. Avoid Punishment

• Punishment can create fear, confusion, and stress.

• Instead, redirect undesired behavior and reward an alternative behavior.

7. Generalize the Behavior

• Practice in different locations with various distractions to ensure the behavior is reliable everywhere.

Always set your dog up to succeed, all training should gradually advance as they learn - no good can come from expecting too much too early...

 Dogs can understand between 165 and 250 words on average, depending on their breed, intelligence, and training.

• Average dogs: Around 165 words

• Highly intelligent dogs (like Border Collies, Poodles, and German Shepherds): Up to 250 words or more

• Record-holder: A Border Collie named Chaser reportedly knew over 1,000 words

Dogs also rely on tone, body language, and context to interpret human communication, so they understand more than just individual words.

Teaching your dog specific words helps with communication, safety, and good behavior. Here are some essential words and why they matter:

Basic Commands:

1. Sit – Helps with impulse control and keeps your dog calm in different situations.

2. Stay – Prevents your dog from running into dangerous situations.

3. Come – Essential for recall, ensuring your dog returns to you when called.

4. Down – Encourages calm behavior, useful for keeping them off furniture or people.

5. Leave it – Prevents your dog from picking up harmful objects or food.

6. Drop it – Helps with releasing objects, preventing choking hazards or destructive behavior.

Everyday Words:

7. Yes – Used as a positive reinforcement marker to let them know they did well.

8. Enough – Teaches boundaries and discourages unwanted behavior.

9. Good boy/girl – Reinforces positive behavior and strengthens bonding.

10. Wait – Helps with patience, especially at doors, crosswalks, or before eating.

Practical Words:

11. Heel – Teaches your dog to walk calmly beside you.

12. Off – Stops jumping on people, furniture, or counters.

13. Quiet – Helps control excessive barking.

14. Bed/Place – Directs your dog to go to their designated resting spot.

Emergency Words:

15. Stop – Can prevent your dog from running into danger.

16. Back – Helps create space in tight or unsafe situations.

17. Help – If trained properly, your dog can alert you when something is wrong.

Would you like help with how to teach any of these words?

 Enrichment is essential for puppies because it helps them develop mentally, physically, and emotionally. Just like human babies, puppies are constantly learning about the world, and providing enrichment helps prevent boredom, reduces unwanted behaviors, and builds confidence. Without enough stimulation, puppies can become frustrated, anxious, or destructive.

Why Enrichment Matters:

• Prevents Behavioral Issues – Puppies with too much energy and nothing to do may resort to chewing, barking, or digging.

• Builds Confidence – Exposure to new experiences helps puppies grow into well-adjusted adult dogs.

• Encourages Problem-Solving – Enrichment activities teach puppies how to think and work through challenges.

• Strengthens Bonding – Engaging in play and activities together builds trust between the puppy and owner.

• Burns Energy – A mentally stimulated puppy is often a calmer, happier one.

Enrichment Ideas for Puppies:

1. Food Puzzles & Snuffle Mats – Make mealtime fun by letting puppies “hunt” for their kibble.

2. Interactive Toys – Toys that dispense treats or make sounds keep puppies entertained.

3. Training Games – Teach new tricks, basic obedience, or scent work to engage their minds.

4. Sensory Experiences – Let puppies explore different surfaces, sounds, and objects in a safe way.

5. DIY Challenges – Hide treats under cups, in cardboard boxes, or inside rolled-up towels.

6. Playdates – Socialization with other friendly dogs (in a safe environment) helps build confidence.

7. Rotating Toys – Keep toys fresh by swapping them out regularly so they don’t become boring.

8. Outdoor Exploration – Let puppies sniff and explore on walks or in a secure backyard.

Enrichment doesn’t have to be complicated—small daily activities can make a big difference in raising a happy, well-adjusted puppy!

 Here are a few things that we at Skenasdoodles feel that you should consider researching and getting organised before you decide on bringing a puppy into your home as well as what you should expect to have to include in your daily routine once you are a dog owner. 

Owning a dog is a huge commitment so we advise that you do as much research and prep as you possibly can before committing to a puppy or dog to ensure that your family have a fun experience in actually being dog owners. 

BEFORE CHOOSING A PUPPY

Research the breed that you feel you are interested in, speak with other owners of the breed about their needs and temperament to ensure that you have chosen the right breed for you and your family. 

Puppy proof the house and garden, ensure that your outside space is an escape free zone and large enough for the breed that you have decided on. 

Find a breeder that you are happy with to ensure that all relevant health checks will be carried out – ask the breeder any questions you may have on the breed requirements/temperaments and find out how much the puppy will cost before joining their waitlist – be prepared to wait for a puppy to be born rather than just purchasing the first puppy that you see advertised. – established, caring breeders generally have a waitlist. 

Research the dogs grooming needs, ensure that you have the time to groom on a daily basis if needed. 

Research the cost involved in owning a dog, e.g. the current costs of grooming, insurance, food, vaccinations. 

Ensure that your lifestyle allows enough time to not only train and love a puppy but give an adult dog the time that they need for the entire life which could be 12 years or so! 

Decide whether your working life allows you to have the time for a dog – put the dogs needs first.

Ensure that someone can be home - puppies should not be left alone for long periods of time during the day. 

AFTER CHOOSING A PUPPY BUT BEFORE PUPPY ARRIVES HOME

Find a vet that you are happy with and register your puppy for their vaccinations.

Research insurance policies !Research food and treats for the puppy – just because they are advertised on TV doesn’t make them good quality and right for your dog! 

Choose a name that the whole family loves – this will take more time than you could ever imagine.

Research flea and tick control – there are many options.

Pull together a first-aid box for your dog – research must-have items including a tick twister 

Find a groomer – book a puppy pamper session for approximately three months of age to ensure that they get used to these sessions at a young age should the breed require regular grooming. 

Decide on house rules with the family.

Research puppy training classes if required.

Plan training with the family to ensure that everyone knows their roles and responsibilities.

Plan to have plenty of time for the puppy, cancel any plans in the diary, keep things nice and calm (no visitors) so that puppy can settle into their new home quickly and stress free in the first week or so. 

Find safe walks and parks so that you are ready for those first walks with your puppy.

Research how you can use the crate effectively to help with safety in the home and toilet training. 

Ensure that your breeder will supply you with a scent blanket for the puppy in their new home.

ONCE THE PUPPY IS HOME WITH YOU

Change the microchip over into your name.

Begin toilet training immediately – this will only be as good as the effort YOU put in!

Start to use the collar so that puppy is used to wearing it when needed. 

Groom/brush the puppy regularly if the breed requires it so that they are used to it when older 

Get into a routine – puppies and dogs LOVE routines 

Ensure that you start to leave puppy alone for short periods of time 

Train your puppy – every day for short periods of time (done in a positive reinforcement way)  

A shopping list to get you started:

Grooming equipment (including a mild puppy shampoo – not human) 

Safe puppy toys - both interactive and for sole play i.e. Snuffle Mat

Teething toys / toys

Poop bags (biodegradable)

Puppy training treats – grain free and mild for sensitive tummies

Dog bed

Toothbrush and paste

Natural immune boosters for the early days

Baby gates for stairs

Crate & Vet bedding

Tick twister

Teething toys

Food bowl

Heavy bottomed water bowl

Collar and Lead

By law, puppies must be safely secured while travelling in a car. We recommend bringing a sturdy box or large pet carrier, along with a soft towel to help your puppy feel safe and comfortable. Please use the car’s seat belt to securely fasten the box or carrier in place to prevent it from moving during the journey.

If possible, have a second person sit in the backseat with your puppy to provide comfort and reassurance throughout the trip.

We will feed your puppy at least two hours before they leave us to help prevent any travel sickness. We recommend that you do not feed your puppy during the journey. Instead, aim to get home as promptly as possible. Once home, give your puppy the chance to go to the toilet, and then offer their next meal.

Please remember that puppies should not be put down in public places on the way home, as they are not yet fully vaccinated. To help with this, we include a puppy pee pad that can be placed inside the box for any accidents during the journey.

On warmer days, be mindful that puppies can overheat quickly. A well-ventilated box with enough space allows them to stay cool and settle comfortably.

While car harnesses can be useful once a puppy is older, many young puppies do not respond well to having a harness attached on their first journey. They’ve never been restricted in this way before, and it can make the experience more stressful. A secure box or carrier is often a much gentler and more comfortable option.

Avoid placing your puppy alone in a crate in the boot. The sudden separation from their mum and siblings, combined with strange smells and noises, can be very overwhelming. For your puppy’s wellbeing, we strongly advise against